South Africa: New releases

The Quartz Chenin sits between the Schist Chenin with its ripeness, and the taut and lean Granite Chenin in style, and comes from a 38 year old vineyard, also on the Kasteelberg

The Granite Chenin Blanc is taut and nervy, from a 43 year old vineyard on the Paardeberg. This will need some time.

Chenin Blanc makes up the spine of the Old Vines White, and it’s supported by Grenache Blanc, Macabeo, Verdelho, Clairette Blanche, Semillon Gris, and Viognier. Some of these sites are impressively old, with Chenin of up to 65 years old, and 60 year old Semillon Gris, while even the Viognier, from iron rich soils, is 21 years old. It’s a wine where balance is key, and where taut minerality is juxtaposed with a ripe, fruity, core. It’s a joyful, ageworthy wine.

Chardonnay in the cape, and more specifically in Stellenbosch, has been much maligned. A lot of this is down to the plant material, which was often virus infected, or not even Chardonnay at all. But a parcel high on the Helderberg mountain challenges that, with a lovely lemon oil character, and impressive mineral length. Just 6,000 bottles are produced, however.

The wine that is perhaps receiving the most attention currently is the Olerasay No.2, awarded 100 points by Neal Martin. Every year since 2008, they’ve held back a barrel or two of their Straw Wine, made from the Chenin Blanc grapes that have the best acidity at harvest, from the Kasteelberg, and the Paardeberg. They refresh a solera each year with the new vintage, and this is the just the second time they’ve bottled a portion. It is spectacular.